Sunday, November 2, 2008

A tale of two gamays

I love simple wines, wines that speak of the countryside and the honest people who make them. Cru Beaujolais is one of these wines. A misunderstood region, that's always stood in the shadow of Bourgogne and the sadistic evils of Beaujolais Nouveau, but a region that produces fantastically earthy, structured wines.

This Saturday, I had a friend over to talk and to drink some wines. Gamay. First was a 2006 Malivoire Gamay. Earthy, with a touch of oak. Bright cherry fruit, with that characteristic Niagara rusticness. Lean in the mouth, a dusty texture, with a bitter finish that drops off. Beautiful nose, but disappoints in the mouth. What can you do - Niagara still has some work to do, but a wonderful wine.

Next wine was a Cru Beaujolais. 2006 Collin-Bourisset "Les Terres Bleues", AC Cote de Brouilly. I expected this one to be the powerhouse - well structured, ripe fruit, earthy tones. Completely surprised me because unfortunately, this wine didn't live up to expectations. Candied, juicy raspberry and red fruits, lush in the mouth, good freshness, but no character. Reminds me more of a Nouveau, which is a terrible thing to be associated with. Long finish though.

Surprising. This confirms that Niagara can produce great wines, but still has some way to go. I question the oak use in the Malivoire. The Collin-Bourisset is a victim of over-maceration, in search of deeper colour. Now, if I had a Moulin-a-Vent, or a Morgon, it'd be a different story.

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