Friday, May 15, 2009

Creativity blurs insanity

Wine writers are a creative lot. You have to be, to describe wines using the same taste adjectives. In any case, Robert Parker takes things to a whole new level. Read this, for La Confession, a great wine of St. Émilion:

2008 La Confession

This is an amazing effort among the many dazzling 2008 St.-Emilions. Proprietor Jean-Philippe Janoueix (who appears to be in his mid-thirties) has produced a riveting wine from a blend of 66% Merlot and 34% Cabernet Franc that tips the scales at 13.8% natural alcohol. Janoueix, an advocate of high density vine plantings, has fashioned a 2008 with sensational fruit levels, an inky ruby/purple color, stunning texture (akin to a Shanghai skyscraper), and tremendous purity. Despite 100% malolactic in new French oak, and aging in the weird looking cigar-shaped barrels, the oak is well-concealed by the wine’s wealth of fruit and concentration. Chocolate, charcoal, blackberry, and blueberry aromas and flavors dominate this sensational effort. It possesses high tannins, but, like so many of the top wines of this vintage, they are sweet and ripe. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020+. 92-94pt R.Parker

Read the highlighted portion. "Shanghai skyscraper"? Really?? You're comparing the texture of the wine to a tall structure of steel and concrete? And Shanghai? Why not New York, or Chicago, or Dubai? Shanghai? Make no mistake, hometown love counts a great deal to me, but this tasting note is frankly, full of shit.

Just another example of an aging, out of touch, self-serving writer who's been privileged with too easy access to Bordeaux's greatest wines.

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