Saturday, July 18, 2009

2006 St-Émilion Grand Cru

2006 Pindefleurs

2006 Château Pindefleurs, AC St-Émilion Grand Cru

This wine is from my 2006 Bordeaux En Primeur order. I wanted to pull a bottle, to get a sense of the vintage. Maybe I pulled the wrong bottle.

The owner of this estate also own Château Pipeau, also in St-Émilion, so the style featured can be deduced. Big, forward, plushy, modern? The taste revealed it to be so.

The assemblage is 90% merlot, 5% cabernet sauvignon, and 5% cabernet franc. Aged 12 months in 100% new oak, which is troubling. And, the greatest shock - they spray the vines with chemicals!! Oh my goodness, what happened to making wine naturally? You know, by happy peasants who sing as they tend the vines with a scraggly dog nipping at their heels? Chemicals?? Scandalous.

Dark, deep colour - blackish purple at the core, with immense saturation to the rim. Surprisingly rustic nose, with quite a noticeable brettanomyces character. Not a lot of upfront fruit - this seems a bit closed at the moment. Some earth, dark berries. The wine develops a meaty aroma, as well as subtle crystalling minerality. The oak is evident.

On the palate, this wine is clearly closed. Lots of abrupt tannins, big structure. Some confected fruit showing, but at this point, it's a crime to be drinking it. I'm judging this wine far too prematurely. A modern wine, but with some restraint. Good finish. Tannins are showing a bit bitter. Clearly not as ripe as 2005, but with impressive concentration. As I said, a modern wine in every way.

We'll see how this does in 3-5 years. Will the fruit emerge? Will the oak integrate? And will the brettanomyces recede? We'll see.

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