Thursday, August 20, 2009

2005 Baden

Königschaffhauser Steingruble

2005 Königschaffhauser Steingruble Pinot Noir Trocken, QbA Baden

Germany, as you know, produces some of the most sublime white wines in the world. I've always known that it produces red wine as well, but my experiences with it have been mediocre at best. Most of the production is in pinot noir, or spätburgunder in the local tongue. This bottle labels it as pinot noir, which is a bit worrying - I'd very much prefer to see the German name, but again, never judge on label.

I'm glad I didn't. This was a spectacular wine. Deep cranberry red, with a luminous robe. Such an intense nose, with a lot of pinot noir character. Roots, bramble, earth, strawberries, and a lot of sour red fruit. Very intense, with excellent oak use. In the palate, this is a leaner style, but with lots of character. Sharp, austere, with good fruit and minerals. Lovely. Very silky texture, with a lot of presence. Long finish. Wow! What a delicious wine.

Very pleasantly surprised with this bottle. Not for everyone, but this is what a complex pinot noir should be like. Nuanced, austere, with lots of character and personality. Wow I love Germany.

2 comments:

  1. I drank my bottle of this about a year ago (bought it on the recommendation of a big Pinot lover) and the thing that surprised me the most was the mouthfeel. It was big, weighty and smooth, while I was expecting something much thinner and lighter. It was an impressive German red.

    I hear the vines are planted on an extinct volcano, or some kind of volcanic rock soil.

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  2. It's a great wine, isn't it? If it really is grown on volcanic soil, it'd be nice to think that that contributed to its texture and earthy tones. In any case, this is a delicious wine.

    It's getting impossible to find good pinot noir under $20, which is also why this bottle blew my mind. Overachiever.

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