Monday, September 14, 2009

2005 Sauternes

2005 Doisy-Védrines

2005 Chateau Doisy-Védrines, AC Sauternes 2ème Grand Cru Classé

So, is this wine a Sauternes or a Barsac? My initial thought is that it's a Barsac - is the vineyard not planted there? But it says Sauternes on the label. Or is this for the benefit of the notoriously label-whoring North American market?

In any case, this is a grand wine. We'll refer to it as a Barsac, because that is what it should be. From the legendary vintage 2005, we are drinking it at least 25 years too early. Infanticide. But, you only live once. I was willing to overlook the hideously expensive price, for a taste of pure pleasure.


It's always special to taste a bottle of Barsac/Sauternes. These are truly magical wines. Imagine slaving away all year to ensure that your grapes are perfectly ripe, and then completely placing your fortune on a fickle, unreliable mold to take effect. Botrytis is like coordinating your love-making. When the timing's all right, it's the most perfect thing; if you don't come at the right time, someone ends up disappointed. 2005 was a perfect year. When you combine perfect ripeness with good levels of botrytis, you end up with a profound, 100-year Sauternes.

Look at the colour. Deep, luminous gold, even at such a young age. You can sense the viscosity as you pour. What a nose. Lots of honey, ripe peaches, apricots, and tropical fruits. Fresh, fruit-forward, but with an underlying minerality that shows you this is not a simple, vulgar, sweet wine. In the mouth, there is just incredible sweetness and richess. Very, very creamy in the mouth, with an unbelievable weight. Absolutely delicious. Lots of length, with good botrytis showing on the palate.

Wow, we drank this wine far too young. It's amazing, but there's not a lot of acidity in the wine. I'd prefer something a little leaner, but this is wonderful. Very luscious. I can't see you eating a sweet dessert with this. A cheese platter, definitely, but nothing sweet. Maybe fresh fruit?

Looking forward very much for the rest of my 2005 Sauternes to mature. And hopefully, the 2007 Sauternes, which I bought a lot of, show a bit more classicism and a bit more acidity. In any case, these are special wines for special occasions, to be drunk with special people.

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