Wednesday, March 31, 2010

2006 Montagne-Saint-Émilion

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2006 Château Faizeau Sélection Vielles Vignes, AC Montagne-Saint-Émilion

Faizeau is a big time wine. I'm building a vertical of it - the first vintage I tasted was a 2002, and it was love at first sight. Last bottle I drank was a 2003, my goodness, drunk two years ago. I have a few bottles of the 2006 sitting around, and with some inspiration courtesy of Bordeaux Meets Burgundy, I wanted to drink it.

100% merlot, from old vines in a somewhat obscure region of right bank Bordeaux. Dark colour, but clear red glimmers. Drank it over 2 days, with no need to decant - sediment has yet to form. Nose booms of well-framed oak, berries. What's beautiful is the savoury, meaty character that develops after 5 hours. Good stuff. Some minerality as well. And who says merlot isn't a serious wine? Palate shows a lot of elegance, with fine tannins, good balance. Oak is quite subtle, but still needs some time to integrate. Finish is a bit clunky, but this is still very, very young.

This wine demonstrates the distince relationship between the various elements of fruit, tannin, acid, alcohol, and oak. While beautifully balanced, the elements are still a bit combative - no doubt the young siblings who need to grow up a bit more to learn to appreciate one another. I have no doubt that in 15 years, this wine will be beautiful. Not a grand wine of Bordeaux, mind you - but a beautiful one, nonetheless.

DF

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