Thursday, March 4, 2010

2007 Pfalz

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2007 Anselmann Schwarzriesling Halbtrocken, QbA Pfalz

This is so interesting. Red German wines are always interesting, but this is special. The Germans call pinot meunier schwarzriesling, or black riesling. Awesome. More awesome than the fact that this wine is 100% pinot meunier, which never happens. Not in Champagne, not in the New World, not anywhere. Awesome.

So, black riesling. Does that mean it'll be minerally and high-strung? Light in colour, nose that dives into the earthy mushroom aroma you find in Burgundy. But as I continued drinking it, over 5 hours or so, my perception of it changed from enthusiastic, to a bit disappointed. Here's why.

Wine is like people no? You build a first impression on first taste, which may or may not be its true character. The wine started out great - all terroir-imprinted with minerals and pinot noir-ish dirt complexity. But the wine really begins to devolve, becoming clunky, horridly sweet from its oak, and completely expressionless. Nothing really holding it together - I have to work to recall a wine that's fallen apart so dramatically over an evening.

So, what's the lesson from all of this? Don't judge too quickly, for good or for bad. Wine (and people) who seem all nice and genuine at first don't always end up that way. In reference to a specific person? You tell me.

DF

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