2004 Coto de Imaz Reserva, DOCa Rioja
Finally, onto the wines sealed under those corks. The first wine of Thursday night, the start of my month off from civilization. I'd been sitting on this bottle for a few months, just for this occasion - to drink alongside a bottle of 1985 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva, featured next. Same producer, different vintage...there is no greater pleasure that can be had.
Dark colour, deep red and purple, still glimmering. The minerality is very much the centerpiece, just a striking wave of crushed wet rocks, spring brook, and mineral water. This is the narative that connects the 2004 with the 1985. Fills with darker berries, strawberries, some spice. What a lovely aroma - at a very youthful stage, but there's excellent intensity, focus. Just sings of what classically made Rioja can deliver in the bouquet.
The palate is just delicious. Berries dance, but there's a tightness and austerity that's extraordinary. Tension in the wine, tannins are tight but focused, very fine. Long, spicy finish, beautifully traditional Rioja, with the potential to age in a very good way.DF