Tuesday, July 27, 2010
2008 Staete Landt Estate Riesling Auslese, Marlborough
How interesting is this - a New Zealand riesling labelled in the German manner, in this case, an Auslese. From the region of Rapaura in New Zealand's South Island, I had every expectation that this was a riesling made in the tradition of the gems from the Mosel and Rheingau. I was so right - this riesling is all sex, all style.
The bouquet is so gorgeous, busting with minerals, citrus, and lanolin cream aromas. The richness is apparent, which carries to the intense palate. Very crunchy, substantial amounts of extract in the mouth, impeccably balanced and so long. A clean wine, no botrytis aromas or flavours, if the grapes were allowed to botrytise. Builds and builds, relentlessly. Holds up well to the third day.
Certainly an impressive wine. It would be fanciful to think that it's the soil that contributes to this intensity and extract, wouldn't it? Could be the low yields, age of the vines, sur lie aging - any number of things, but this is a spectacular wine. I'm convinced more than ever that when New Zealand gets it right, it's really right.