Sunday, August 15, 2010

1991 Rheingau

1991 Schloss Schönborn Riesling Spätlese

1991 Schloss Schönborn Riesling Spätlese, QmP Hochheimer Domdechaney, Rheingau

Leapfrogging back in time by a decade, we come to the final wine of our trio from this estate, for Rieslingfest. The 1991 riesling spätlese, single-vineyard - I've been holding onto this wine for a few years, and my hands were shaking in excitement as I drew out the surprisingly clean, intact cork. Hats off to this producer - all 3 corks were in pristine condition, a testament to their great cellar.

With a deeply golden colour, the bouquet just sings of what mature Rheingau rieslings can achieve - ripe citrus fruit, oily, creamy, and with just the most linear minerality. Rich in the mouth, but very vigorous and lively, belying its almost 20 years of age. The palate is just so balanced, with high levels of extract and what seems like crunchy acidity on the finish. Complex, delicious, and long - with our cured hams and then octopus, a dream.

Clearly the finest wine of the evening, and my favourite. Sadly, I have but one bottle left. Mosel wines embrace more of my heart and intellect, but these old, perfectly mature Rheingau's (like Victoria Secret's Candice Swanepoel, like my neighbour's Bentley Continental) are absolutely irresistable.

DF

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