2001 Château Tour Saint-André, AC Lalande de Pomerol
I've had enough with this Bordeaux bashing that's suddenly become the trademark of all these hipster American wine drinkers. You can rail against the absurdity of the whole En Primeur system, of French greed, of the desecration of Bordeaux terroir, of whatever . . . people are still buying and drinking Bordeaux like it's going out of style, no? I don't know how I feel because I still buy a lot of Bordeaux, much of which I have yet to touch. My first real, serious purchase of Bordeaux was the 2005 vintage, so there's a bit more to go before I venture for a taste. What did I want to do in the meantime? I wanted to drink more Bordeaux, more cabernet, more merlot, and instead of painting the whole region with the same brush, to see if I actually enjoyed any of the wines.
I had a weekend of Bordeaux and cabernet/merlot wines a few weeks ago. We started with this one . . . a 2001 from a more minor area of Bordeaux, off the plateau of Pomerol. Browning slightly, but good, dried fruits, rustic and earthy, good complexity - showing its age, but retaining a fine texture and structure. Becomes more savoury, meaty, and over time, reveals more nuance and more of the character you expect from a Bordeaux. Elegant, and drinking beautifully. Good start.