Saturday, September 11, 2010

2008 Marche

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2008 Giusti Piergiovanni Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, DOC Marche

Italian wines are fickle wines. You don't know which you're going to get - the traditional, authentic Italian, or the trend-chasing, marketing-obsessed charlatan of a wine. Tristemente, I've been disappointed more than excited with the Italian wines that I drink. But, as evidenced by a stunning Sangiovese di Romagna tasted a few months, it's clear that when Italy gets it right, it's really right. A point of contention I had with the lady who decided to hijack my writing and photo, but being chauvinistic about your home country's wines is a sign of blind ignorance, masquerading as patriotism. A great wine is a great wine, regardless - conversely, a bad wine deserves as much honesty.

Lacrima is tears. What this refers to is the varietal - when the grapes ripen to maturity, the skin breaks, and the juice runs out like tears. Certainly a more obscure wine, but experience proves that sometimes it's the unknown ones that provide the most authenticity. With a vibrantly dark colour, this is so floral - all violets and freshness. Lots of energetic fruit, very fresh, and an incredibly terroir-specific wine. Ripe but perfectly balanced, this wine shows it's quality after 2 days of air, just an aria of fresh rose petals and fresh red fruits. With high tannins, it almost has a crunchy texture, with length. Positively singing, a gorgeous example of what Italy can achieve.

I put some away. No doubt this will be exciting in 5 years or so. If I can drink more Italian wines like these more often - I really have to start rethinking my buying decisions. Alas, alas . . . one can always dream.

DF

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