Friday, October 22, 2010

2008 Mosel at Terroir Tribeca

2008 Erben von Beulwitz

2008 Erben von Beulwitz Riesling Kabinett, QmP Kaseler Nies'chen, Mosel

In my planning for eating in New York, my first thought went to Terroir Tribeca. Sort of the mecca for German riesling lovers, a wine bar above all others. I wanted my Sunday to be about nothing but wine, with stops at 3 wine bars and at least one wine shop planned, but alas, when you're not on a (solo) vacation, things never work out as hoped.

Dropping in after an exhausting morning, thirsty and hungry, riesling was my oasis in the desert. The wine menu is long, and in this blogger's opinion, clumsily written in hipster talk - but it's the wine that matters, and this is where the proprietor excels. Very comprehensive selection of German rieslings, and I had a long discussion with our server about the wine I was looking for. Unfortunately, not as many older rieslings as I had hoped, so I narrowed on 2008. As vintages go, 2007 is universally praised as fantastic, but at this point, still far too young. The austerity is something to watch out for, in contrast to 2008, which is showing much riper and purer fruit at this point. As well, I wanted a natural wine, and as it turned out, there were 2 rieslings to choose from. The 2008 Erben von Beulwitz Kabinett, my choice.

Delicious like nothing else, pungent, oily minerality, beautifully ripe citrus, an ethereally long, mineral-tinged finish - served at a nice temperature too (cool, not chilled). An appetite for brunch. The calamari salad, acidic but very fresh. Charcuterie platter was stunning, especially with the wine. Likewise the duck proscuitto sandwich, toasted perfectly. Prices fairly high, but the wine is nicely priced.

Terroir Tribeca, definitely as good as advertised, although more older vintages would be nice to see. Riesling, my love has never been stronger.

DF

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