Thursday, December 9, 2010

2007 Chianti Classico

2007 Rignana Chianti Classico

2007 Rignana, DOCG Chianti Classico

A Tuscan (wine) of great breed? I never know what to expect out of Chianti anymore. There just doesn't seem like the Italians are sure how to handle sangiovese - this is such a delicate grape that modern techniques are a disaster, especially with issues like over-ripeness and excessive oak aging. The super-Tuscans make it worse - am I the only one who thinks the idea of an Italian claret is laughable, especially at the prices people seem willing to pay? Brunello's no better. It's overpriced and fake, ouch.

So what do you do? Because I do love sangiovese. We hardly see anything in Toronto other than the usual mid-priced Chiantis and very expensive Brunellos - the wines of Emilia-Romagna almost never make an appearance. That's why wines such as this Rignana should be celebrated. A modern wine, yes, but balanced, with lovely creamy red fruits. Not necessarily pasta-turning authentic, but a pleasurable nevertheless.

Is it too much to ask for a true expression of sangiovese? Is it?


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