Tuesday, March 22, 2011

2005 Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux

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Château du Grand Mouëys, AC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux

The classified growths of Bordeaux are referred to as the locomotive that drives the local industry. It's important to place this into context - while these wines are arguably the most famous and heralded wines in the world, they make up just a small percentage of total production in Bordeaux. Why then, does it seem like such a lottery when you're buying Bordeaux under $30? Of course there are gems . . . but exciting claret in the 20's is far and few between.

Grand Mouëys is not bad, just not particularly exciting. Young at this point, but the brettanomyces is a bit shocking. Even three days of air didn't entirely soften its rusticity. Aromas of brett is fine, so long as it develops into savoury, leathery tones. Stinky wines, on the other hand, are just that . . . stinky wines. Being a 2005, I also expected a bit more exuberance, a bit more fleshiness, characters missing from this wine.

With the Barolo I've been drinking, maybe it is time to rethink putting more Bordeaux into my cellar. My tasting notes aren't meant to be harsh so much as express a disappointment at finding truly exciting yet humble Bordeaux.

DF

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