Saturday, March 19, 2011
2008 Marziano Abbona Papà Celso, DOCG Dogliani
Simplicity and authenticity. So difficult to put into words what exactly they mean in wine, so difficult to qualify when you taste. Yet we search for it, obsessively even. And when we (winos) find it, we want to shout as loud as we can about these gems. True wine transcends all nationalities, ethnicities, or chauvinistic tendencies.
This is my first bottle of dolcetto. I still think the French make better farmer's wines, but this wine proves how brilliant this estate is. Patience, the highest of virtues, required. Still very young, and when you taste, you understand that this wine is structured for bottle age. Not typical of most dolcettos, but Abbona is not most producers. Dark purple with a red core, lots of forward and lean fruit. Aggressive even, something I love about Italian wines. After 2 hours of air, a roasted, savoury aroma wafts out, with minerals on the palate. Spicy finish. And then the tannins show why drinking this wine now is tantamount to infanticide. A few more hours in and the wine completely shuts down in bouquet and palate. Patience, right?
So, simplicity and authenticity. Yes, on both counts. This is a farmer's wine, no doubt. Unpretentious, pure, and absolutely demands to be served with food. A good, proper Italian wine, aggressive at first, becoming very warm with time. Something we all need to be drinking more of.