Thursday, April 7, 2011

2003 Toscana Vino Rosso

2003 Azienda Agricola Svoltacarozze di Meoni Sebastiana

2003 Azienda Agricola Svoltacarozze di Meoni Sebastiana Vino Rosso, IGT Toscana

Name is too long. There's no reason to use such a convoluted name for your wine. Honestly. Who the hell is going to remember something like that when they're buying wine? Coming out of Tuscany, should not be so difficult. Producer name, name of appellation, done. Or am I just talking out the ass? I won't start on the label design.

This is not a SuperTuscan. That was a vulgar term propagated by American bluster and Italian greed. That there is the epitome of collusion in wine journalism/wine industry relationships. The Italians needed a way to market a category of (International palate) brand wines more expensive than Bordeaux, and the American wine press needed something to make a name for itself. Is a wine with more cabernet and merlot than sangiovese still an Italian wine, not to mention a Tuscan?

SuperTuscans are nothing more than expensive wines. That's the true meaning of the term. Glorified trophies, really. But sadly, any wine falling under the Toscana IGT is automatically labelled as such. As this wine was being opened and poured, I admit to an initial skepticism as to what it was. From the famed heat-wave vintage, a blend of 90% sangiovese and 10% cabernet sauvignon. Heavy in sediment, nearly cloudy, but that may have been due to the wine not being stood up for a few hours prior to opening.

I have a really hard time enjoying Tuscan wines. Chianti can't be trusted anymore - it's an absolute nightmare to find a proper sangiovese-based wine that actually tastes like sangiovese. This humble vino rosso taught me that there are still protectors of the faith here. Slightly browning colour, which I think a lot of the 2003's are going to have - too many wines got ripe too quick, and are beginning to fall apart. At least that's what I initially thought. Bouquet of dried fruit, slightly raisiny. It however shows a delicate sour red berry character typical of sangiovese. On the palate, dusty texture, lean, but well integrated. Slightly hollow in the transition to the finish, but this wine was getting me excited. Over the three days that I drank it, the wine went through an amazing development, getting better and better. Firms up in texture, beginning more earthy, minerally. Elegant on the palate, very finely structured, and incredibly, shedding its fatigue when it was just opened to become more youthful, energetic.

Amazing, and absolutely authentic of Tuscany, sangiovese, and vintage. While not a perfect wine by any means, a truly authentic one. That's pretty super to me.

DF

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