Sunday, April 24, 2011

2009 Dolcetto d'Alba

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2009 Paolo Scavino Dolcetto d'Alba, DOC

It just makes sense that a producer of impressive, expensive wines should take the same care in producing humbler wines as well. Doesn't always happen that way, but when you do find such a producer, buy in multiples. Paolo Scavino makes very impressive Barolos, but that quality and care can also be found in its dolcettos. I don't normally care too much about dolcetto - maybe I need to start paying more attention.

A young wine, tasted without decanting. Dark purple, with a slightly confected fruit character, something I find often in young dolcetto. What impresses immediately is the texture on the palate - absolute wool and thick cashmere, creating a full impression on the palate but yet incredibly weightless. Seems very soft, but the finish shows very fine tannins. Extraordinary transition, showing balance and aging potential. Develops savoury aromas, with the fruit remaining fresh and vibrant. A delicious wine, which kept changing character over the 3 days it was open. I could learn to love this.

Vintages is releasing a few Paolo Scavino Barolo 2006's. Judging by price, are they 5 times as good as this one?

DF

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