We had one more big meal planned the next day. Lunch at Le Grand Cerf, Michelin-starred and decidedly more rustic, with all the charm of the French countryside. Again, we ate what the chef pleased to cook. Fresh, vibrant, and singing of spring - particularly delicious was the John Dory soufflé, so wonderfully textured and rich, and the white asparagus was a revelation.
With lunch, a bottle of nonvintage rosé, NV Legras & Haas Rosé Brut, from the Grand Cru village of Chouilly. Very agreeable indeed, fresh, with lovely red berries. After a morning of tasting Champagne, a bottle at lunch, and then more tasting in the afternoon, I stumbled back to the hotel a little unsteady on my feet. But there's no shame in that. There are worse things to be fucked up on than a bit of Champagne.