Sunday, June 19, 2011

Philou, and the bottle of Morgon

2010 Marcel Lapierre Morgon, Paris

The rarest of instances, when something you've hoped and dreamed about becomes a reality and the experience is more profound and extraordinary than you ever imagined? If there was only a way to distill and bottle that.

Better (and more important) wine people have written so admiringly about Marcel Lapierre - what more can be said than the fact that he made stunningly singular wines so achingly beautiful as to truly leave you speechless. I finally had the opportunity - the honour, rather - of drinking his Morgon. Completely unexpected, and absolutely over the fucking moon.

Right, the restaurant. A little bistro called Philou, fairly new, definitely local, and frightfully French. Met the arrogant Frenchman I was waiting for my entire trip, but by the end of our meal, I won him over with my charm, enthusiasm, and a good tip. Love the French. The food was just stunning, fresh and vibrant, a beautifully modern interpretation of French food yet staying authentic to tradition. The white asparagus, the seared cod, the huge chunk of pan roasted veal, the poached rhubarb - all a dream come true. And then the wine.

Really, what more can be said about 2010 Marcel Lapierre, Morgon? Truly a singular wine experience, much more than just a simple Beaujolais - it is that, but there's a textural quality to the wine that is very interesting. This is a rustic wine in every way, but the incredible focus and precision of bouquet and palate flavours make it more than its pedigree would suggest. The way the wine goes through you - it must be the absence of sulfur - feels like the wine is at once weightless yet voluptuous in texture. It's been a long time since I've been so excited about a wine. What a treasure.

The food was extraordinary too.

DF

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