Monday, July 11, 2011

2009 Detzemer Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken

2009 Familie Rauen Riesling Kabinett Trocken

2009 Weingut Familie Rauen Riesling Kabinett Trocken, QmP Detzemer Würzgarten, Mosel

I don't have much faith in dry riesling. Or rather, this style of dry riesling we always seem to be seeing come out of Alsace, that heavy, alcoholic headiness they seem to equate with typicity. So all this news about these magnificent trocken rieslings coming out of Germany leaves me intrigued, although still a bit skeptical. But what's the worst that can happen . . . I have to force myself to finish a bottle of wine?!

This was part of a tasting of three other rieslings, a throw-down of two Mosel wines and one Niagara. It was finally the first hot weekend of the summer in Toronto, and I had the charcoal ready to go. Getting all the stemware out to the backyard was a bit nerve-wracking, but managed it without disaster. Ice bath out, grilled seafood and greens on the table. Time to drink.

And this wine was great. Low alcohol makes all the difference in dry riesling, I'm so convinced. Steely minerals and citrus, citrus. A fabulous amount of freshness, with a wonderful amount of roundness and elegance on the palate. Develops honey, finishes long, and just absolutely delicious. Am I convinced about trocken rieslings? I should probably drink a few more, but this bottle is a nudge to skipping past Alsace.

DF

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