If I wasn't in such a fucking foul mood all the time, I'd say that there's few things that give me more pleasure than simple, traditional Chinese cuisine. We don't take care of our culinary heritage, because news out of China says that this year's crop of 铁观音 has gone to shit. Domestic consumption (and gift-giving) is so high that tea producers are taking all sorts of short cuts, from the growing to the actual production, to pump up volume. That means tea without colour, without intensity, without any of that character that made them special in the first place.
A shame. Because with Chinese food, nothing marries so well as a glass of tea, or better yet, a carafe of Shaoxing wine. If only you and I were running things . . . if only.