Monday, November 21, 2011

2009 Chinon

2009 Domaine Rene Couly Chinon

2009 Couly-Dutheil Domaine René Couly | AC Chinon

So how many cuvées does Couly-Dutheil actually make? A lot. I bought a bunch of their 2005's; won't that be fun to taste in a few years. This is a fabulous producer of cabernet franc - earthy wines that sing of the Loire and in the best years, show impressive density and concentration. Lots of potential indeed, and as terroir-specific as a wine can be.

I like wines that challenge you a bit. Often, it means wines that aren't necessarily pleasurable. But they make you think a bit, challenge your understanding of a region, a varietal, a vintage. Even if they make your palate wince a bit . . . it's worth the great leap it may yield in experience. This wine is just correct. Correct in specificity, both in varietal and region character. Fabulous aromas, finely structured. But Chinon is an acquired taste, to say the least. I like drinking Chinon very much, but I have to be in that frame of mind to enjoy it. Fruit (or at least obvious fruit) is always in the background, with acidity bringing austerity. Not cuddly, but sincere - and in wine and all else, honesty and authenticity trumps cuddly every time, all the time.

DF

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