Monday, December 26, 2011

being indifferent about simple Bordeaux

2006 Chateau Lafon Listrac

2006 Château Lafon Cuvée Classic | AC Listrac Cru Bourgeois

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2004 Château Canteloup | AC Médoc

Behind the great locomotive of great classified-growth Bordeaux follows the thousands and thousands of smaller properties which can at times produce exciting wines, but more often than not, yield solid if unspectacular bottles. These two wines, from Listrac and Médoc prove that cabernet/merlot can be utterly boring wines. Lean, simple, fresh fruit can be useful with a meal, but overtly bretty wines that never lose that skunkiness and are clear signs of questionable vinification and cellar practices? That is a problem.

Being boring isn't a sin. There's something to be said about simple, humble wines. So why am I still shaking my head? Because I think there's a real danger here, on low end wine production, to lose any and all nuance in where a wine comes from, when it was made, and really, what it is. You have to have that really ripe, sweet tasting fruit, all clean flavours and all to sell wine to North Americans. But are those mutually exclusive from terroir honest wines? And forget about wines that were just poorly made to begin with.

There has to be something worth tasting, for the other 95% of Bordeaux.

DF

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