Sunday, December 18, 2011

the Christmas wishlist

DF

I don't think you should be expecting gifts after you start working (and presumably, earning money). But that's just me. For holidays, I prefer getting friends together for a good meal, with lots and lots of opened bottles on the table. Just hours and hours of eating, drinking, and talking shit about other people. And I think I know what I want for Christmas this year. A few weeks ago, Levi Dalton posted an interview he conducted with Patrick Cappiello, the Wine Director and Sommelier of GILT Restaurant in New York's Palace Hotel. He also posted the restaurant's wine list. All 86, thirst-inducing pages of it. Check out both.

Mr. Cappiello has assembled a very impressive cellar, going especially deep into Chablis. I actually spent a good 45 minutes going through the entire wine list. Just playing with myself, sort of the way you flip (and dream) through a Maserati catalogue. Lots of legendary, epic wines. Unless you're particularly fortunate enough to have wine-loving parents who've built a cellar (as my potential progeny will have), there are limited opportunities to taste older wines. Not talking about 40/50/60 year old bottles of some grand Bordeaux or Burgundy either . . . regularly being able to pull out 10 year old vintages of even humble wines would be a struggle. So, we are resigned to accept that the only way to taste mature, truly great wines are at restaurants who employ great wine stewards.

Expensive, without a doubt . . . but we also have to think about value-for-money. Would you rather pay $50-75 for a wine that can be found for sub-$25 retail prices, or $200 or so for a mature wine that will change your life and be remembered forever? I know what I want. And it's listed below (with prices in USD).

If you're going out to eat this holiday, please check out older vintages. It's thanks to people like Mr. Cappiello that we might still have a chance to drink something older than ourselves.

2002 Pierre Moncuit, "Brut Blanc de Blancs ", Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (160)
1985 Moët & Chandon, "Brut Dom Pérignon ", Epernay (725)
1990 Moët & Chandon, "Brut Dom Pérignon ", Epernay (595)
1988 Dom Ruinart, "Brut Blanc de Blancs ", Reims (425)
1996 Dom Ruinart, "Brut Blanc de Blancs ", Reims (380)
1996 Dom Ruinart, "Brut Rosé ", Reims (625)
N.V. Jacques Selosse, "Brut Initiale ", Avize (295)
N.V. Jacques Selosse, "Extra Brut V.O. ", Avize (600)
1990 Trimbach, "Cuvée Frédéric Émile", Ribeauvillé (275)
1983 Trimbach, "Clos Sainte Hune", Ribeauvillé (960)
2002 Didier Dagueneau, "Pur Sang" (380)
2007 Didier Dagueneau, "Silex" (250)
1990 Nicolas Joly, "Coulée de Serrant" (185)
1978 Haut Brion Blanc, Pessac-Leognan (750)
1996 Vincent Dauvissat, "Vaillons" (150)
1999 François Raveneau, "Forêt" (240)
1990 François Raveneau, "Butteaux" (460)
1990 François Raveneau, "Montée de Tonnerre" (440)
1990 Vincent Dauvissat, "Les Preuses" (325)
1990 Vincent Dauvissat, "Les Clos" (360)
1983 François Raveneau, "Valmur" (650)
1981 Comtes Lafon, "Clos de la Barre" (310)
2002 Roulot, "Les Vireuils" (135)
1988 Coche-Dury, "Perrières" (1,500)
1990 Comtes Lafon, "Charmes" (750)
1981 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, "Montrachet" (3,500)
1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, "Montrachet" (6,500)
1982 Domaine Leflaive, "Bâtard-Montrachet" (1,100)
1990 Ramonet, "Bâtard-Montrachet" (775)
1983 Egon Müller, "Scharzhofberger", Spätlese (360)
1993 Zilliken, "Saarburger Rausch", Auslese (130)
1990 Joh. Jos. Prüm, "Wehlener Sonnenuhr", Auslese (265)
1990 Joh. Jos. Prüm, "Graacher Himmelreich", Auslese (275)
2001 Dönnhoff, "Oberhäuser Brücke", Spätlese (205)
1996 Calera Pinot Noir, "Mills", Mt. Harlan (150)
1990 Calera Pinot Noir, "Jensen", Mt. Harlan (245)
1993 Bryant Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (975)
1995 Colgin, "Herb Lamb", Napa Valley (940)
1996 Dominus, Napa Valley (315)
1990 Harlan, Napa Valley (1,000)
1990 Heitz, "Martha's", Napa Valley (450)
1995 Mayacamas, Napa Valley (295)
1979 Opus One, Napa Valley (850)
1992 Ridge, "Monte Bello", Santa Cruz Mountains (295)
1969 Camille Giroud, "Les Charmes" (300)
1966 Bernard Grivelet, "Les Amoureuses" (450)
1957 Prosper Maufoux, "Les Amoureuses" (460)
1991 Comte Georges de Vogüé, "Les Amoureuses" (440)
1983 George Roumier, "Les Amoureuses" (1,725)
1989 Joseph Drouhin, "Musigny" (520)
1986 George Roumier, "Bonnes Mares" (1,595)
1985 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, "Romanée St Vivant" (6,800)
1986 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, "Richebourg" (1,900)
1985 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, "La Tâche" (8,500)
1986 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, "La Tâche" (3,200)
1966 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, "La Romanée Conti" (12,000)
1985 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, "La Romanée Conti" (18,000)
1985 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, "Échézeaux" (2,800)
1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, "Grands Échézeaux" (4,500)
2002 Henri Gouges, "Clos des Porrets St. George" (190)
1962 Gaunoux, "Les Rugiens" (780)
1988 Michel Lafarge, "Clos des Chênes" (215)
1996 Comtes Lafon, "Clos des Chênes" (330)
2007 Marcel Lapierre, Morgon (50)
1947 Château Cheval Blanc, Premier Grand Cru Classé A (11,000)
1982 Château Cheval Blanc, Premiers Grand Cru Classé A (3,000)
1947 Pétrus (12,000)
1986 Château Latour, 1er Cru (1,850)
1986 Château Mouton-Rothschild, 1er Cru (1,275)
1961 Château Léoville Las Cases, 2ème Cru (960)
1986 Château Margaux, 1er Cru (1,900)
1983 Château La Lagune, 3ème Cru (320)
1986 Château Haut Brion, 1er Cru (1,300)
1985 E. Guigal, "La Landonne" (1,350)
1988 E. Guigal, "La Mouline" (1,025)
1979 Paul Jaboulet, "La Chapelle" (390)
1978 Beaucastel (725)
1996 Pibarnon, Bandol (170)
1978 Palladino, "Santo Bernardo Riserva ", Serralunga d'Alba (385)
1961 Giacomo Borgogno, "Riserva", Barolo (480)
1982 Giacomo Borgogno, "Riserva", Barolo (310)
1978 Marchesi di Barolo, "Grand Annata Riserva", Barolo (410)
1983 Vietti, "Rocche", Falletto (345)
1974 CVNE, Cune, "Reserva" (350)
1946 CVNE, Viña Real, "Gran Reserva" (950)
1970 López de Heredia, "Gran Reserva Tondonia " (495)
1976 López de Heredia, "Gran Reserva Bosconia " (395)
1979 Vega Sicilia, "Unico" (795)

DF

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