Sunday, March 25, 2012

unwavering, uncomprising

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2008 Giacomo Mori | DOCG Chianti

What does it mean to be traditional? For instance, what does it mean that a wine was 'traditionally-made'? I have a suspicion that it's once again a cheap generalization that preys on a consumer's ignorance to sell wine, but let's humour them for a bit.

Antonio Galloni, who covers Italian wines for the Wine Advocate, wrote that Readers who enjoy traditionally made wines will flip out over Mori’s Chianti in 2008. But what is a traditional Chianti? Is there such thing anymore? Wine, more than anything, is an expression of traditions and heritage, but like all things, its only constant is change. As the great Paul Pontallier (estate manager of Château Margaux) says, with every gesture, there is a margin of progress. Would the winemaker who made Giacomo Mori's first vintage recognize today's wine? Perhaps. But maybe we need to think more carefully before we assign the word traditional to a wine.

The wine was wonderful. Not the most elegant, nor the most impactful, but pure and linear, showing great varietal character. It's the humility of the wine that's most striking . . . singing of sangiovese that could come from nowhere else in the world but this particular place in this particular country.

I'm fucking exhausted.

No one said it would be easy, but I'm getting my ass handed to me by the GMAT material. The good news is that I've finished reading all the books. Now the real work begins. Exam booked for the end of May, so there is no way out of it now. I learned the hard way that (a few) shots of bourbon before going to bed doesn't make you sleep better. Quite the opposite in fact - that was one of the most fitful nights of sleep I've ever had. But the bourbon was, surprisingly, delicious. What better way to learn about something than just to drink right?

DF

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