Tuesday, August 28, 2012

drops of gold in a 10 year old Chablis

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2002 Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Les Lys | AC Chablis Premier Cru

A great selection from the portfolio of Nokhrin Wines. Alex and his son Max Nokhrin are doing some good work - the opportunity to find these kinds of wines (10 year old Chablis!!) are very, very uncommon. In any case, my first taste of mature Chablis, so it was time to shut up and start drinking.

This night, it was all about the wine. Yes there was food on the table, haricots verts and fish and stuff, but our main focus was going to be on the wine. Pours gold, but with enough of a shimmer to remind you that this is no soupy chardonnay. That mature nose, creamy and sort of warm butter-ish, with lean green apples and of course, that rocky minerality. Palate follows, staying linear with great acid lift on the finish.

A delicious wine - but we can't get too carried away. The wine's an authentic representation of a good Chablis, but stops just short of being exciting. And you know what it all hinges on? Concentration and texture, that's what. The elements are there - the maturity, the minerality, the acidity, the complexity. It's just missing more of it. Lacking in a bit of texture, and I'm not necessarily talking about a voluptuousness on the palate, which isn't common to Chablis anyway. No, it's a certain refinement that's lacking here; there's certainly substance, but just not enough. Regardless, make sure you have a taste of this. Again, a great learning experience, and my perspective on mature white Burgundy has been expanded.

Long weekend coming up! Hope everyone has something fun planned for the last long weekend of summer. Kind of deflating, to think that the summer's almost over . . . wasn't I just slaving away at GMAT??!! It's been . . . a productive summer for me. Lots of things going on at once, but I should be finished all my applications by November, and then we'll see if this Shanghai trip is still a go. I was talking to a friend today about just saying screw it, I'm leaving and travelling for the next 2 months. But we're Chinese and therefore responsible people, so that's out of the question. And besides, how am I going to pay my way across Spain, Portugal, and France . . . ??

DF

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