Wednesday, September 12, 2012

the weird and the wonderful from the Jura

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2009 Rolet Père & Fils Blanc Naturé Savagnin Ouillé | AC Arbois

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2005 Fruitière Vinicole d'Arbois Vin Jaune | AC Arbois

In order to develop an appreciation for wine - a true appreciation - one must taste all sorts of different wines. Yes, we need to taste from the well-known regions, to develop a certain benchmark, but we also need to experience things that really push our understanding of what we think wine to be. Unbelievable, that sounds so pompous and up the ass. But it's true.

Vin jaune, and the wines of the Jura, are those wines that you kind of always read about, but just don't get the chance to ever taste. Well, that chance finally came last month. Vintages released this pair of wines together - a table wine savagnin, and a vin jaune. All giving us such a fabulous chance to see just how the winemaking style can transform the same grape. The vin jaune was expensive, but it's only the expensive wines (in North America at least), unfortunately, that have something real and interesting to say.

Both delivered. The Rolet Naturé de Jura, all freshness and electricity on the palate. Some rusticity showing up on the finish, that connection to the vin jaune, which was so utterly, completely different to anything I've ever tasted. The first blast just singing of fino sherry, but with more concentration, slightly more rusticity. Over the next week, as I slowly tasted a bit each day, the wine sort of focuses a bit, actually gets a bit fresher with more air. Amazing complexity. On the last day, it all begins to soften, but what a way to go.

It's almost irrelevant whether I personally enjoyed the wine or not. I can never find pleasure in sherry, so it's tough for me to say whether I liked the vin jaune. But the lessons it taught me over the 7 days I drank it, and how it's expanded my understanding of Jura wines - that's what really matters.

So tired. Only Wednesday, and yet, I feel so beat. Application deadlines just seem to be roaring at me, and I feel underprepared and completely underqualified. All stressed out and shit, breaking out, breaking down a bit. I had a long talk with a few buddies today, and they kind of put me in my place. Needed to hear that. They want to see me focus on one thing, and just that one thing - to get into school, to reach that goal. Anything else is, well, insignificant in the grand scheme of things . . . after all, it's just my future on the line.

DF

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