Friday, October 26, 2012

whispering to Marcel

2010 Marcel Lapierre Morgon2010 Marcel Lapierre Morgon
2010 Marcel Lapierre Morgon
2010 Marcel Lapierre Morgon
2010 Marcel Lapierre Morgon

Can you get to know someone through their wine? I mean really get to see the winemaker's personality - dare I say soul - come through in the glass? I think so. Wine, and terroir, after all, are simply a reflection of what the people who bring them to life. And this one made my head spin - all speechless and red in the face. I actually got emotional from it, as silly as that sounds. Well, considering that it's me, maybe not so silly.

Lapierre Morgon is one of those wines that every true wino knows about. I don't care much for the 'natural wine' label - what's so special is how the biodynamic viticulture and winemaking has shaped how the wine makes you feel. Simply talking about aroma and flavours feels completely inadequate, doesn't it, especially for a wine like this. Even more meaningful, considering Marcel's passing in October 2010. Even though his son Mathieu had taken over winemaking for a few years, the man's soul never left these wines. And that's what comes through - a vinous expression of joy and character.

I drank my first bottle of Lapierre Morgon in Paris last year, in a little bistro called Philou. It was, in a word, magic. So when I saw a case of the same vintage come for sale, there was absolutely no hesitation ... this was going to be the first case of wine I ever bought. With another year in bottle, the wine feels a bit more open, more pure in fruit. That same inimitable depth - the wine feels so in tune, like it just runs through you effortlessly. So silky, so weightless. Achingly beautiful.

So what does this wine teach? I think it teaches that wine can sometimes transcend simply flavours. True wines make you feel something, physically and yes, emotionally. We share something, the winemaker and the wino. From the vineyard, into the bottle, into the glass - it's all life flowing through, and as a wino, if we listen carefully, maybe the clouds will part and we'll see a bit of soul. After all, wine shouldn't be fetishized. It shouldn't be worshiped, it shouldn't be placed on an altar. No, it should be shared and drunk over an honest meal, with the people you love. And if you're lucky, sometimes the wine's so exciting, it just might take you over the moon.


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