Tuesday, December 11, 2012

the country bumpkin

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2010 Clos La Coutale | AC Cahors

A selection from the portfolio of the great Kermit Lynch.

It's been a long time since I've drank a Cahors. It's these country wines from pockets of old wine regions around Europe that remind you what a true vin de terroir is, but all too often, they're neglected because they simply lack in pleasure. The wines are authentic and honest, but it's always tough to convince casual drinkers of their appeal, when faced with a glass of coarse, unruly red wine. This producer, however, shows that in the right hands, even humble varietals from humble regions (and at very humble prices) can show a glimmer of grandeur.

Dark and varietal, that kind of spiciness, but what's really exceptional is the texture. Like silk and sleek marble all at the same time; elegant but underneath it all, an evident structure. A beautiful woman with eyes that blaze fire. Malbec is never truly exciting, but these linear, minerally wines are something special. The question, is what constitutes authenticity in these wines? Is it trying to be something it's not? I don't think so, not this one. Cahors and elegance aren't contradictions - nor does it say anywhere that country wines have to be rough and lack subtlety. Sure, this producer goes for nuance as opposed to something more obvious, but the end result is something that can't be mistaken for anything other than Cahors, from colour to nose to palate.

So, close, really close to finishing all my business school applications. If all goes well, I'll have the last one out by Friday. If all goes well ... oh, and by the way, yes, I realize a huge number of the past photos have been off of Instagram. Bear with me. I've been distracted by other things lately, and it's much quicker to run a photo through IG than it is to set up a shot with D-SLR + flash, then processing.

DF

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