Saturday, December 15, 2012

with a soft sigh

2008 Doufouleur Père & Fils | AC Crémant De Bourgogne

If it's done right, the cork releases itself gently, sighing in the way only a satisfied woman can, as they say. Oh, the French. No one quite makes sparkling wines like they do. Or innuendo.

I love drinking crémant - happiness on a budget. But when it's done right, it's so much more than just refreshing fizz. No one's claiming that it's a substitute for Champagne, but good crémant can be incredibly vinous in its own way. Take this one, from Doufouleur of Nuits-Saint-Georges. This Crémant de Bourgogne, a vintage-dated rarity, has an uncommon complexity and subtle richness to it. Fresh and vibrant on the palate, it does what sparkling wine should do, and that is lift you up, energize you, make you hungry for another bite of food, think of things you shouldn't be thinking about. The very best kind of wine.


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