Thursday, April 4, 2013

harbouring no preconceptions

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2011 Casali Borgo Del Boiardo Reggiano | DOC Lambrusco Rosato Secco

Can I share something with you? When a wine is said to be out of fashion ... 9 times out of 10, that's the wine you should be drinking. Lambrusco is one those things that people need to pay more attention to. I mean quality Lambrusco, not that sweet junk. This one, a fabulous sparkling rosé, with delicious berry aromas on a dry palate that finishes with a beautiful lift. Surprisingly firm and structured, staying drinkable and fresh.

That feeling of dryness can be so hard to find. The term dry wine can mean many things - and since it's not really regulated, it can often mean that the wine retains a bit of residual sugar, to help with the texture. So really, we're talking about the perception of dryness. But in the best instances, such as this bottle, a true dryness gives the wine structure, poise, and focus ... all elements of food-friendly, ageable wine. It's fascinating, because this dryness doesn't necessarily mean a mouthful of tannin. In this case, where we're dealing with a rosé sparkling wine (which won't have much tannin to begin with), we see how you can have a wine that is dry, but isn't tannic. A very fine balancing act, but when it all comes together, the result is wonderful, especially with food.

Not following trends, not following the mainstream - what am I, a hipster now? Am not. But if we consciously temper our preconceptions, maybe that's when we get really excited about wines. And maybe the night when we drank this, I was the only one around the table whose eyes lit up. But I'm working on it, this whole thing of encouraging (forcing) the people I eat/drink with to see as I see, taste as I taste.

DF

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