Friday, August 2, 2013

a contrast in dry and sweet Mosel

Top: 2010 Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling Trocken | QbA Mosel
Bottom: 2009 Bollig-Lehnert Riesling Auslese | QmP Dhroner Hofberger | Mosel

What's your pleasure, what's your mood tonight? Dry? Or something sweet?

Why not both.

Mosel riesling is my love, my true love, a fire that will never be extinguished. And here, two examples of how diverse riesling can be, yet show that same familial character. First, the trocken, from Maximin Grünhäuser. As described by its U.S. importer Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

The estate’s entry-level dry wine shows fine, fresh fruit, with a spicy edge.

The estate Riesling Trocken (dry) is a blend of the barrels that remain after the singlevineyard dry wines have been selected out of the overall production. This is a topdown selection process done purely by taste. It starts with the finest selection for the “Superior” bottlings, then the Alte Reben (old vines) wines from Abtsberg and Herrenberg, the single-vineyard QbA Trocken wines, and finally the estate QbA Trocken. In most years, this wine is predominantly from the Herrenberg vineyard, but the proportions will change depending on the vintage. The result is an entry-level dry Riesling that shows the characteristic minerality of the area and the refined style of the Grünhaus estate.

Then at the other end of the spectrum, an auslesen from a producer we've been seeing a lot of in Ontario, Bollig-Lehnert. From their own website, this description of the vineyard:

Dhron-Hofberger: Londitude 6° 55″ 42″ E / Latitude: 49° 52″ 46″ N

Tucked away in the valley of Dhron lie the exceptional vineyards of the Dhron-Hofbeger – perfect weather and climate conditions make this small wine-growing area a Gem!..the rather less known Dhroner wines offer the drinker a full-bodied but elegant, rich Riesling wine with a touch of acidity.

Two very different wines. The trocken, showing impeccable balance and minerality, a lovely lifted palate, pure elegance and precision. The auslesen, a powerhouse, yet lithe on its feet. Lebron James doing a pirouette. Yet both wines show the focus and intensity of riesling, that beautiful mineral profile and harmony on the palate. Lovely, stunning wines.


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